Most reviews of the DJI Flip focus on autonomous flight and close-range vlogging, however, the new DJI model is also an interesting, affordable option for photography and videography
The Flip is the cheapest DJI line model offering the spectacular hyperlapse functionality. In this article, I will show you how to make the most of it
The quality of Hyperlapse mode in the Flip is excellent, very similar to the one obtained with the Mini 4 Pro. The resulting short movie is very stable in low wind
The only weak point is that the automatically generated movie is at a resolution of 1080p, however, still suitable for social media. More advanced users can post-process the individual RAW files and create a 4k sequence
Other related articles you may find interesting:
- Flip photography
- Flip video quality
- Motion blur in time lapses and hyperlapses
- Luminar Neo photo editing software
Hyperlapses vs Timelapses
Time lapses and hyperlapses are somewhere between photography and videography. They consist of a series of photos taken at a constant interval and then assembled as a video sequence
There is a difference between the two terms:
- In a timelapse the point of view is static, in other words, the drone hovers during the shooting. It is used when the scene already contains several elements in motion
- In a hyperlapse the aircraft moves, thus adding extra movement to the scene
Settings
The most importable important variables to set are:
- the interval between each photo
- the length in seconds of the short film
- the shutter speed value
In the four hyper-lapse modes I will analyze later in this video, we can select the Interval and Length by opening the small window in the lower part of the screen and the Shutter Speed value in the exposure windows
It is crucial to use manual exposure to control the shutter speed value and manual White Balance to avoid shifts of colors
The app automatically generates a short movie at the end of the shooting process. This movie can be used to share clips right out of the camera. For more advanced users, it is possible to save each photo as RAW or JPEG to edit the images with a photo editor and assemble them in a video editor
The SD card will contain two folders: the first includes the auto-generated short movies and the other the RAW or JPEG files for each photo if this option was selected
For color grading, I use Luminar Neo, my favorite editing program. This is an affiliate link, so I get a small commission in case of purchase. Here you can read my article about Luminar Neo
Number of Photos
In most cases, I like to take 300 photos, as it makes it easy to compute the time needed for shooting, according to the interval between photos
Interval | Photos per minute | Time needed |
2″ | 30 (60/2) | 10 minutes (300 photos/30 photos per minute) |
3″ | 20 (60/3) | 15 minutes (300 photos/20 photos per minute) |
4″ | 15 (60/4) | 20 minutes (300 photos/15photos per minute) |
At an interval of one photo every 2 seconds, the camera will take 30 shots per minute (60 seconds divided by two), so the shooting time will be 10 minutes (300 photos divided by 30). At an interval of 3 seconds, it will take 15 minutes, at 4 seconds 20 minutes, and so on
With 300 photos, the length of the resulting hyperlapse will be about 12.5 seconds with a frame rate of 24fps. This is a suitable length for most occasions
When shooting hyperlapses, keep an eye on the remaining battery life, so that you have enough time for a safe return to home
Interval Between Photos
As you can see from these examples, the interval between shots affects the speed of the movement. Intervals of 2 or 3 seconds are good choices when the moving elements of the scene are people walking or vehicles
The Flip has an announced battery life of 31 minutes, slightly shorter than the 34 of the Mini 4 Pro
At an interval of 2 seconds, we can produce longer clips with about 350 photos, but there is a caveat: at this interval, the slowest shutter speed available is 1/3“, so we cannot set the ideal 1” speed. It is a small compromise, but the result is still more than acceptable
With a 3 seconds interval, we can take about 270 photos for a resulting short movie of just above 11 seconds
An interval of 4 seconds is more suitable when the movement is mostly in clouds. In this case, we have to reduce the number of images and the movie will be shorter
Shutter Speed and Motion Blur
The Shutter Speed value is crucial for hyperlapses, as it controls the motion blur in the moving elements within the scene
The correct amount of motion blur generate a smooth rendition of the elements in motion, similar to what we would see in real life
For drone time lapses and hyperlapses, the ideal shutter speed value is between ⅕” and 1”, . At higher shutter speeds the car movement gets jumpy, different from what we would see in real life
For such a long shutter speed value a set of ND filters is needed to reduce the amount of light entering the sensor
Hyperlapse modes
We access the Hyperlapse functionality through the icon above the shutter. A vertical menu appears to the left with the four modes:
- Free
- Circle
- Course Lock
- Waypoint
A small window appears in the lower part of the screen, we can open it by tapping on the arrow to the right. Here we can enter the interval between each shot, the length of the movie in seconds, and the maximum speed
Just above we can check the resulting shooting time and number of photos. This window applies to the first three modes, while Waypoint hyperlapse has a different interface
Before hitting the red shutter to start the shooting process, we set the crucial shutter speed value in the exposure window at the bottom right of the screen
Free
In Free mode, it is possible to move the drone in any direction while shooting using the two wheels of the remote controller
I do not find this technique useful, as in most cases produces very jumpy footage. I prefer using Waypoint mode for more flexibility and smoother results
I only use Free mode for timelapses with the drone in a static position
Circle
In Circle mode, the drone orbits around a target. After selecting this mode, we choose a target that will be the center of the rotation by drawing a box around it with a finger
We can then open the window to enter the usual values for Interval, Length, and Speed. In this mode, we must also specify the direction of the rotation: Clockwise or Counterclockwise
After hitting the red shutter button the aircraft will move for a few seconds in the chosen direction computing its position before starting the photo shooting
Course Lock
In Course Lock mode, the camera orientation is disconnected from the flight direction
The settings are similar to the ones we saw for Circle mode, but this time there is a lock icon above the small window
We orient the drone toward the desired flight direction and tap on the lock icon, then we choose a target by drawing a box around it for the camera direction. The camera will remain pointed at the target while flying diagonally
We can then set the Interval, Length, Speed and exposure like in Circle mode
If we do not lock the flight direction and simply choose a target, the aircraft will advance toward it in a straight line
Waypoint
Waypoint is the king of hyperlapse modes and the one I use most of the time
We can set up precise paths by creating several points. For each point, the position of the drone, its elevation, and the camera orientation are stored in memory. The software will handle the smooth transition between points
At each point, it is possible to modify the speed of the flight
Each mission can be stored in memory and performed at different times of the day, in various light conditions, or other seasons
In most cases, we only need a few points, here I will show a simple example made with only two points
After choosing Waypoint in the Hyperlapse menu, the small window on the screen prompts “Set Waypoint”. I want to start from a top-down view of the square of the little village. So I position the drone and the camera, open the small window, and tap the empty icon on the left to set the first point
I then move backward, lowering the altitude and tilting the gimbal slightly upward to maintain the view of the center of the village. I tap on the next icon to set the second and last point
I can now set the interval to three seconds and the movie length to 12 seconds. In waypoint mode the speed of the move is determined by the distance traveled and the number of photos, the longer the distance, the faster the move
This is the result, a sort of reversed crane move, a classic shot in cinematography